Rubi Valley: Real Nepal

Rubi Valley sits in the hills of northern Dhading, a few days’ walk from the nearest busy trekking route. It doesn’t have the fame of Everest or Annapurna, and that is exactly why I wanted to film there. The people who live in these villages, mostly Tamang families, have been farming the same terraces for generations, and the Ganesh Himal range watches over all of it.

Why this valley

I went looking for a place where daily life hasn’t been rearranged for visitors. In Rubi Valley the teahouses are often family homes with an extra room, dinner is whatever the household is eating, and the trail is still a working path for people carrying grain, firewood and school bags.

What the film follows

• Morning routines in a Tamang village, from butter tea to the first trip to the fields
• The songs, dress and dances that come out during local celebrations
• Conversations with elders about how the valley has changed, and what they hope stays the same
• The high pass views of the Ganesh Himal that make every steep climb worth it

The hardest part of filming here wasn’t the trail. It was knowing when to put the camera down and just sit with people.

If you go

Go with a local guide who knows the villages, carry cash, and plan for simple homestays rather than lodges. Autumn and spring give the clearest mountain views. Most of all, bring time — this is a valley that rewards people who don’t rush it.