Swayambhunath sits on a hill on the western edge of Kathmandu, and from the top you can watch the whole valley wake up. Travellers know it as the Monkey Temple; for locals it’s one of the most sacred sites in the valley, visited by both Buddhists and Hindus.
I like to climb the long eastern stairway just before sunrise. The steps are steep, the monkeys are bold, and by the time you reach the top the butter lamps are already lit and the first visitors are circling the stupa beneath the painted eyes of the Buddha.
Before you go
- Keep food out of sight — the monkeys know exactly what a snack bag looks like.
- Walk around the stupa clockwise.
- Stay for the light: the first hour after sunrise is the best time to photograph the valley.
