Kathmandu Momo Trail

Ask anyone in Kathmandu where to find the best momos and you’ll start an argument. So I spent a full day walking the city to find out for myself, from tiny back-alley kitchens to busy family restaurants that have been folding dumplings the same way for decades.

What I learned

• The sauce matters as much as the momo. Every kitchen has its own and none will share the recipe.
• “Jhol” momos — served in a warm, tangy soup — are worth the trip on their own.
• The busiest places are usually the best. Follow the queue of office workers at lunchtime.

By the end of the day I had lost count of the plates, but I’d also met cooks, students and shop owners who were happy to talk about their city between bites. Street food is one of the easiest ways into a culture.